Surprising El Salvador — Someday Sherpa

A little bit gritty with a host of natural attractions, El Salvador opitimises everything we thought Central America would be. Plus, it’s full of spirit, kindness and surprises.

Many people opt out of El Salvador due to it’s ganglands reputation. While there are two rival gangs that have wreaked havoc throughout the country, it’s not targeted at tourists and we felt safe and welcomed the entire time.

Our trail through El Salvador:

Ruta de las Flores
Santa Ana
Juayua
El Cuco

Menu-musts:

Yuca frita
Pupusas
Plate del dia $1

Point to note:

El Salvador uses US Dollars for their currency. If you’re not carrying them then all border crossings have a few guys who will act as on-the-spot currency exchanges thanks to their stash of notes which could choke a dozen donkeys. Despite being truly sceptical, they offered a rate not far from xe.com.

The best and cheapest way to travel. This kid is the bus boss.

Ruta de las Flores

The gringo trail sees most travellers head straight to El Tunco, a renowned beach / surf town. We took a slightly different route and headed from the Guatemalan border to Ruta de las Flores. At 36km this ’Flower Route’ trail of backroads through volcanos, lakes, waterfalls, coffee plantations and colonial towns is well worth the stop, time permitting.

Santa Ana

This town is a little grimy but you’re only one chicken bus away from the volcanos, crater lakes and yet more lakes.

DO

Hike the Santa Ana volcano at 2,365m high and bare witness to the dusty, sulphur-infused turquoise crater lake that sits on the top. No need to book a guide. Take the 7.30am local chicken bus up there for $1 (1.5hrs). The police have to escort you up the volcano which is a little painful if you want to move at your own pace but wise if you want to remain safe.
Lake Coatepeque is renowned for it’s beauty, chilled vibe and great swimming…just check out the waterside mansions for reasons why tourists and locals alike enjoy this place so much.

EAT & DRINK

We cooked all our own food at Casa Verde thanks to the fresh market produce, close super market and BRILLIANT kitchen.

SLEEP

Casa Verde is hands down one of the best hostels we’ve stayed at. Great atmosphere, small pool, seriously well-equipped kitchens, and a really helpful host (Carlos).

IF YOU DARE

Walk down the red light district main street. Sadly hilarious.

Nothing like an armed guard escorting your volcano hike

Yucca with slaw and chilli. Might have to swap the roast tatties for this in the future.

Juayua (pronounced why-ooh-ah)

A welcomed change of pace after Santa Ana, Juayua is a tiny weeny, relaxed town with waterfalls on its doorstep and food in abundance.

DO

Time your visit to experience the weekend food markets Feria Gastronomica (food fair). They are the ‘thing’ to do. Bring an empty stomach. Based around the central plaza it serves up all the classics and plenty of wild cards. Massive plate of local fare will set you back US$3-6.
Waterfalls of Los Chorros de Calera to wash the day away.

EAT & DRINK

See above for the weekend food markets
Ezmarelda’s Pupuseria serves up the best pupusas in town. If it weren’t for the food markets I would have eaten there every night. Pupusas are only $0.60, beers are $1 and if they’re serving up the flan, it makes a tasty dessert.
Coffee at Raiz Cafe just off the main square. Try the Aeropress which is similar to espresso. They’ll also serve little homemade cookies which are simply delightful.

SLEEP

Hostel Casa Mazeta. Darren an English guy runs it. Social place - we chatted the evening away while watching an ad-hoc, in-garden, and frankly scary fireworks display. HIDE!

MOVING ON

Getting from Juayua to Playa el Cuco

Take a chicken bus from Juayua to Sonsonate $0.50 from the bus station next to the main church (30mins)
Once at the Sonsonate bus station, look for the 205 bus queue to San Salvador terminal de bus de Occidente (West Terminal). You have two options; the direct chicken bus for $0.75 or the especial a/c bus for $1.30 (1.5hrs).
Now you cross town to get to another bus station in San Salvador, terminal de bus de Oriente (East Terminal), 6km away. Walk out of the terminal Occidente onto the main road and catch the 7C chicken bus to Oriente $0.40 (10mins)
Hop off at San Salvador bus terminal Oriente. We had to cross the main road to get into the bus terminal where you'll be bombarded with people selling you bus tickets to San Miguel. Even though it’s intimidating they’re out to help, however take your time and find the bus you like. We splurged and bought $5 tickets for the 2.5hr ride which had reclining seats, a/c and movies. Before boarding grab one of the delicious meals from a nearby vendor. Expect to pay US$2-3 and be stuffed afterwards.
Jump off at the San Miguel terminal and walk through it to find the bus line marked to El Cuco - 320b (1 hour).
Grab a taxi from El Cuco to El Tortuga Verde - a $5 fixed price sadly but it’s a long and rough road that isn’t worth trying in the dark.
If you haven't got maps.me downloaded on your phone, get it. It makes the most incompetent naviguesser (me) aware of where you are without needing wifi.

Ruta de las Flores doesn't get it's name by accident

Obligatory image of fruit. When there's so much variety and colour it's hard not to snap...and then buy and eat.

El Cuco

Beach time! Deciding to skip El Tunco based on some travellers reports that it was a rocky beach offering little if you’re not a die hard surfer we landed at El Cuco which is the opposite. A long stretch of sand with soft waves, beckoning you to come play.

DO

Disclaimer: La Tortuga Verde is your base and offers everything you need in a town that has very little.
Surf, sand and sun, with hammocks and beach beds to make it the ultimate chill out place.
Do your bit and get involved in the turtle sanctuary activities offered.
Surf boards available to rent by the hour (US$3) or day (US$10). Boogie boards are free.
Massages are $10 for 30mins
Yoga in the beachside yoga pavilion
Walk the beautiful beach

EAT & DRINK

Staying at La Tortuga Verde, we ate all meals there - and were not disappointed.
Decent beach bar which has happy hour 4.30-6.30pm. Shocking DJ but entertaining none the less.

SLEEP