Hello modern world! After touching down back in Mexico after three weeks in Cuba, we feel like we’re crawling out of a bubble. Devoid of internet or phone, we realised that we narrowly escaped Hurricane Matthew by one day, missed a few birthdays (sorry), Sherpa missed the Ryder Cup (I had no idea he knew about golf) and neither of us had any idea about the state of current events. A strange but kind of nice feeling in this age of instant-everything. 

We spent our time exploring the top half of this huge island. Havana, oh sweet Havana, what a wonder. TActing like cowboys through limestone valleys, learning salsa in colonial buildings, chilling on golden expanses of sand and all the rum you can shake a sugarcane stick at Cuba was everything we hoped for and more.

Note: Cuba is a must-see. Most importantly, a must-see designation right now. Here’s why:

• The Americans are coming en-masse. Planes and cruise ships are arriving. 
• prices are going up and commercialisation is creeping in, fast. 
• the internet arrived, and while controlled, it’s changing the scene
• I didn’t grow up in the 1950s but Cuba has all the innocence I imagine the fifties did; neighbours hanging out in the twilight hours and actually talking to each other, kids running around in the streets laughing and playing games, and classic American cars in all their glory. 

Our anti-clockwise route took us via: 

• Havana
• Vinales
• Cienfuegos 
• Trinidad
• Santa Clara
• Varadero

Travel tips:

• Itinerary: Three weeks is the minimum amount of time you'll want here. It's a deceivingly big country which takes a fair chunk of time to cover. When planning your itinerary, plan better than I did. I wish we flew into Havana and out of Baracoa so you can travel seamlessly from west to east. Even if you have to fly back from Baracoa to Havana to connect with your international flight, this will allow you to see the whole country. We didn't get to the east corner due to time - and it's supposedly incredible. Note: the internal flights can be outrageously expensive so book early.
• Arriving: be prepared to wait AGES for your bags at the airport. They will come.
• Cash: Exchange cash to CUC, at the airport. Be prepared to wait in a loooong line. Our top tip, while one person waits inside for bags, get the other person to clear customs and go out and start changing the money. When you check in for your flight for Cuba, get one person to check in the two bags so that you won't have any issues clearing customs. ATM’s may work for you incase you run out of cash on a mojito bender.
• Like a local: When in town hit a bank and exchange some CUC for local Cuban pesos. You'll need your passport at the bank. CUC is most widely accepted but if you want to eat and drink for next to nothing in the Cuban hole-in-the-wall places, pesos will ensure you get the best deal.
• Scams: Read the 'top scams' by the two scots. Very useful.
• Casa’s: This is the best way to really understand Cuba. You'll quickly be folded into family life and be completely taken care of. Every casa owner will help refer you onto the next casa for your onward journey which is helpful. There is absolutely no need to pre book anything else other than your first nights accommodation. My only tip is to check on the map where your recommended casa is. We had one that was on the fringe of town. In Cuba, Casa's are in abundance and, with a heat that makes you drip with sweat, you'll want to be smack-bang in the centre of town. 

Currency: Cuban Convertible Peso - AUD$100 = CUC$76 (pegged against the US Dollar)

Tally:

• Windowless collectivos - 1
• Mojitos - 75 (guesstimate)
• Casa's slept at - 7
• Hours on horseback - 5
• Lobsters eaten - 4
• Distance travelled - 1,136km
• Longest hike - 18.7km round trip
• Bathtubs used as bar seats - 1
• Salsa lessons - 2hr
• Flamingoes spotted - 80+
• Tan lines - well established for Lisa, all over the shop for Sherpa
• Days without Internet - 17...refreshing but scary (hurricane Matthew hit Cuba as we flew out but we knew nothing about it!)

Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa