Havan-a good time — Someday Sherpa

It’s difficult to describe Havana - a culture shock right from the get-go.

Virtually untouched since the 1950s, buildings are derelict from the outside but peek inside and you’ll see resourcefully maintained interiors, an insight into communism.

There’s an emerging cafe and small bar scene with the emphasis on emerging. And music is everywhere - bursting out of ever street corner - you can’t help but get involved.

Broken into three distinct sections, Vedado, Centro and Old Havana (Habana Vieja), you’ll want to explore all three but for me, the real highlight was Old Havana. You can wander the streets for days and nights on end and still not believe what you’re seeing.

A note on money: a lot of Aussies have problems getting money out. We got lucky at every ATM we visited and could withdraw cash (although we came very prepared, loaded like mules with cash). Not sure if it was because we had an ING VISA debit card which is a Dutch run bank with no US affliiation.

EAT & DRINK

Havana Vieja

La Floridita - where the daiquiri was invented. Live music will help wash down these colourful cocktails while Ernest Hemingway's statue perches at the bar for your typical photo opp.
La Bodeguita del Medio - drink the mojitos, smoke the cigars and dance the salsa. This historic and gritty little bar is home to Ernest Hemmingway’s mojito, plus a string of other celebs so you'll be in good company. If you haven't lost your inhibitions by now, this bar will kick it out of you. (Empedrado Street).
Drink at O'Reilly 304 - a hopping gin bar and contemporary tapas restaurant. Not too pricey but more than the local hot spots. (O'Reilly St, Habana Vieja)
Lots of great bars along O'Reilly St in particular an awesome rooftop bar
For the best views and a nice breeze in the Havana Vieja, Ambos Mundos hotel rooftop bar is just the ticket. In the late afternoon, the place is alive with people kicking back on the comfy couches, taking in the sunset and enjoying the occasional live band.
Any meal is served up with a glass of your preferred Caribbean drink at El Dandy. They also serve a decent macchiato (Brasil #401 esq. Villagas, Plaza del Cristo, Habana Vieja.
Lunch at Habana 61 (Habana Street, 61, La Habana Vieja). Try the Ropa Vieja. Traditional shredded beef dish.
Dinner at Plaza Vieja. Lots going on here. Getting there, you can't help but stumble into countless hole-in-the-wall bars bursting with live music.
Grab dinner at NAO Bar Paladar (Obispo Street, just up from the water). It's a tad touristy but makes a decent meal if you're down by the water. There are better places to go.

Vedado

Mojito or a coffee on the outside terrace of the Hotel Nacional. The sea breeze is a real treat.
Move over Messina, your Cuban rival kicks some serious ice cream butt. Introducing Coppelia. Just like Messina, the queues are long but worth it. Only $15 peso (AUS$0.80) for the fully monte for two people. Think Sundays with all the necessary sprinklings. Add a slice of Cuban classic milk flan to wash it all down!! We had no idea what we were ordering - just go with the flow!!
Just across the road from the Coppelia, is an epic Cuban sandwich place - a Cubano. Only $15 peso (AUS$0.80). It had no name but was on Calle 21.

DO

There is so much to do - it really will depend upon what you’re into.

Wander through the old town Habana Vieja. The architecture, time warp and daily life will blow your mind. It's jaw dropingly intriguing at every turn.
Museo de la Revolucion CUC$8pp and well worth it to get a good and visual overview of how the revolution went down. Bullet holes still intact.
Plaza de Revolucion is impressive. We ran there early in the morning. It makes a great 9km run taking in the seaside Malecon (esplanade) on the way back. Go early - it's hot!!!!
Check out the ART GALLERY of Cuban art - it was closed when we were there but I believe it’s excellent. The universal art museum is not worth it at all.
Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fortress at the entrance to Havana harbour. In its hay day (1700s) it was one of the most impressive of the new world. We took a bus there and a taxi back - entrance fee is CUC$6 but we didn't pay it, preferring to read the history notes in our book and climb all over it ourselves.
Don't miss Callejon de Hammel. Afro-Cuban beats and dancing in a surreal setting of psychedelic art. A completely unique experience.
Take an evening stroll down the seaside Malecon to watch the star-crossed loves canoodle.
Get a bicycle taxi around town for about CUC$2. I'm all for walking everywhere but holy dooley it's hot.

SLEEP

Casa particulars are the way to go. You meet the warm locals and only pay between CUC$25 - $35 per night.
Don’t get tricked into staying in Centro, the real magic is in Havana Vieja.
- Casa Nancy. You won’t get a better location than this in Havana Vieja. I loved this place and highly recommend it. 207 Calle Brasil. Phone: 0786 01898
- Casa Don Marta was lovely but in Centro and too far from the action for my liking. But (and a big but here), Marta and her husband are hysterical and for that alone, I loved staying in their home. Manrique 212, apto 204, e/Concordia y Virtudes. Email: martaisabel.1953@yahoo.es. Phone: +53 7862 5160

MOVING ON

Buses are easy to arrange to get you around. Viazul is the national bus service. If you’re heading to Vinales, book a ticket at Hotel Plaza instead of schlepping to the main Viazul bus stop. You’ll get treated to the luxe Transtur bus for CUC$14 pp from Havana to Vinales.

IF YOU DARE