Around Cuba — Someday Sherpa

Cuba is a big country - and takes a lot of time to travel the length of it. Here are some spots we visited, some (much) better than others as you’ll read below.

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Vinales

The perfect getaway after some hectic Havana days. Think lush green palm jungles overshadowed by giant limestone ranges. You have to make this place part of your trip.

EAT & DRINK

El Barrio does a decent pizza and omelette. Also a mean mojito!
El Olivo - where Cuban food is inspired by Spain. Paella, moussaka, olives and salad - it's all available and pretty tasty.

DO

First a note on the weather while we were there; it tended to rain heavily every day at about 3pm for up to an hour. Get all of your outdoor activities done before then and then flop in a bar with a well-earned mojito and watch the downpour.
Horse ride. Without all the liability waivers and overprotective minders that we face in Australia - Cuba is definitively the place to get your canter on. Our trip was 5 hours through the picturesque valleys taking in the towering limestone cliffs flanked by palm trees and lush jungle. It's fast, slow, dirty and beautiful. All types of contradictions all rolled into one. We stretched our legs at a coffee plantation, learned how to roll and smoke cigars and swam in the midst of a pitch black cave. CUC$25pp.
Hire a bike and explore the town
Grab a guide through your casa and walk to the Valley of Silence

SLEEP

Casa Villa Maruco y Zoila is lovely. Their home is on the main strip and both Mario and his wife will make you feel right at home. They have two private rooms located at the back of their house, unlike other casa's where you're staying inside the home. Mario will help you arrange all of your activities (horse riding recommended through their mate) and cook you a mean meal! Request the lobster for dinner. Calle: Salvador Cisneros #173-A, Sergio Dopico y Celso Maragoto. Email: hgmario@nauta.cu (ph: +53 48695880)

MOVING ON

We booked a classic car to take us to Cienfuegos. BIG FAIL! The ‘air-conditioning’ they promised was in fact a car with no windows. Sounds cool, but after 5 hours of 80km p/h air blowing in your face, you’ll wish you were in the comfort of the Viazul bus for the same price.

IF YOU DARE

Swim in the pitch black underground cave. You’ll have to hold your nerve as your eyes start to play tricks on you.

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Cienfuegos

Being completely honest, this was not my favourite part of Cuba. Dubbed 'the Paris of Cuba', I was pretty excited about this stop but was quickly disappointed.

It's a lovely little town - and I know I shouldn't compare but I'm going to - it's just a tad bland compared to Havana, Vinales and Trinidad where the streets are alive with music and culture.

Set by the sea, you can watch the fishing boats potter in the harbour, bask in the golden light of the sunset or stroll the quiet streets.

The highlight for me, hands down, was the family we stayed with at our Cienfuegos casa. This family of four was something else! The mother, Eliana, was warm and embraced me from the moment I stepped foot in her house. When we left the house to explore the town, a large, intimidating man started running to us - waving in a very animated manner. Instantly, we both launch into our standard "no gracias" explanation as to why we don't want whatever it is he is selling. But he pursues us, shaking our hands. Then we realise, he's Osmani, the father at our Casa. A new friend.

Before we left the casa the next day, we spent three hours with the family, rocking on the porch with beers and cigars, talking frankly about life in Cuba and exchanging stories about our families.

I know I've been reading a lot of drug cartel books and am rewatching The Sopranos but I swear our Casa owner is in some sort of Cuban mafia - if there is one. He knew everyone, had all the good deals and everything he had to offer had fallen off the back of the truck. Cheeky and wonderfully kind, this family made our stay in Cienfuegos.

EAT & DRINK

Nothing to recommend!
There's not a lot of live music and dancing happening in this town (that we could find)

DO

Check out the central plaza, classic architecture offering a multitude of people watching spots ripe for sipping mojitos
See the flamingos in their natural habitat. While November is the best time to see these vibrant, graceful birds, we saw 80 hanging out, only 16km outside Cienfuegos. A taxi will set you back CUC$20 (they'll hang around waiting however) and there's a CUC$10 for entrance and a peaceful row-boat tour to get up, close and personal with the flamingos. A must see if you haven't encountered these beautiful birds.
Go find our mafioso family and crack a beer with them.

SLEEP

Osmani y Eliana. Casa Dorada Cerca del Viazul. Ayenida 64A #5509 e/55 y 57, Detras de la Fabrica de Tabacos. Email: osmany1973@nauta.cu or ph: 4351 1077. Great breakfast, aircon, quiet room and good shower.

MOVING ON

The main bus station at Cienfuegos offers buses to Trinidad for only CUC$6 (1.5hr bus ride). Book as early as you can as it fills up fast.

IF YOU DARE

Take over from your row-boat tour guide when you see the flamingos. Trying to row the tiny dingy will test your skills

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Santa Clara

A city perfect for a stop over to take in the history and Che's final resting place.

EAT & DRINK

The rooftop terrace at our Casa Autentica Pergola is one of the best in town.
Sandwich from a small yet contemporary cafe with great fare. It's across the road from Autentica Pergola.

DO

Mausoleum, museum and monument of Che Guarvera.
American-Cuban murals on a stretch of wall on route to the mausoleum is a cheeky show of Cuban-American relations.

SLEEP

Authentica Pergola: this has to be our favourite Casa in Cuba. Luis Estevev #61 e/Independencia y Marti. Email: carmenrt64@yahoo.es. Phone: +53 42 208686

MOVING ON

Viazul bus to Varadero is only 3 hours and CUC$8

IF YOU DARE

Try your hand at the state run ice creamery, Coppelia.

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Varadero

They say Varadero is one of the best stretches of beach in the Caribbean. Having not had the privilege of visiting other Caribbean spots, I can't personally make that call but I can tell you that this stretch of coast is something ad agencies dream of capturing to market paradise - it was perfection everyday.

Get ready for crystal clear water that has different gradients of aqua, turquoise and blue. Sand grains so white that you can't get upset when they lodge themselves between your toes and blue skies that hang softly overhead to frame this tropical paradise.

There is a gross side to Varadero that we had no interest in being part of. You know the one I'm talking about: endless high rise hotels, and 'exciting' all inclusive packages where fellow tourists wear their 'all inclusive' wristbands like a badge of honour promoting their right to all the food and drink they can consume in 24 hours *cringe*.

We steered well away from that scene, opting for the more local strip at the other end of town, know as Varadero town (east Varadero). Here you'll find local restaurants and bars, almost empty stretches of beach and a selection of local Casa's with families ready to take you in.

Sherpa's not new to the beach now and is starting to get into the swing of beach-life. He even went into the knee deep water without floaties. So brave.

Here are our tips for an obnoxious-tourist-free Varadero experience.

EAT & DRINK

Don't go to Varadero for culinary excursion!
Calle 62: a sidewalk bar that will keep you hydrated (or dehydrate depending on which way you look at it). Nothing special but the place has live bands and is close to other Varadero restaurants and bars.
Varadero 60: a slightly overpriced restaurant but the service is great and we had one of our nicest meals here (fish and the pork). The atmosphere was laced with fat Europeans so we escaped once we'd had our fill.
La Ramada is a quick cheap and cheerful place for lunch. Conveniently for us it was located between the beach and our Casa. The service was simply delightful as was the food.

DO

Beach time! Hiring 2 beach lounges and an umbrella (perfectly positioned for maximum shade), you'll have to fork out CUC$7 for the entire day but it's well worth it.

SLEEP

Casa de la Familia Cubana, 2da Avenida Segunda (between Calle 42 & 44). Set back from the beach, this place is wonderful. The hosts Anita and Chichi are so warm and friendly and the breakfast is the best in Cuba. You will not go hungry. Email: anab65@nauta.cu. Phone: +53 45 669221.

MOVING ON

Arrived and depart by Viazul bus. The station is central and it's simple to book your onward journey. At CUC$10 a ticket it's much more economical than the cars.

IF YOU DARE