The 6 Cs of Cusco
The Inca capital, a foodies haven, cultural hit or shoppers paradise...don't settle on one as Cusco has it all. Much more than the launching point for Machu Picchu, the city begs to be explored. Grand plazas, intimate restaurants, colourful locals and an endless stream of boutiques and bazaars means you'll need plenty of spare days (and dollars) to savour its wonder.
So here we go, the 6 C's of Cusco!
Culture
It's only appropriate to start with the reason Cusco is now a booming tourist destination; local sources tell me between 5-7million descend annually 😳 . This shouldn't dissuade you because no place thrives under these conditions unless they have infrastructure to match and Cusco is definitely thriving! It would take all day to list the wealth of historic sights on offer so I'll go with my hit list.
Santo Domingo Monastery: The absolute must see for any Incan fans. Only 40% of the original building remains thanks to the Spanish and their destructive ways but this is THE CENTRE of all Inca culture. The colonial monastery, built in the 1600's is impressive with its pillared courtyard, ornate church and mixture of religious and contemporary art, it has nothing on the Incan section. Entrance is 15Soles and a guide will set you back another 30-40Soles. Please get a guide, it's the only true way to appreciate the skill, intelligence and insight of this once mighty nation.
Their walls are built at an angle of 4-8deg to help prevent earthquake damage
All stones were granite or similar, cut into shapes measuring up to 10ft across, polished to a fine sheen and lastly each one includes a niche or tooth similar to a lego brick which interlocks. Not only are these linking sections invisible when the walls complete but again they prevent earthquakes.
Two such events occurred in 1650 and 1950 destroying vast amounts of the colonial buildings while the Incan walls remained completely intact.
Colonial stonework vs.
Inca earthquake-proof quality!
Pre-Columbian museum: Minutes away from the Plaza de Armes is the best example of historical memorabilia in the city. Recently restored by the national bank the artefacts cover two floors around another lovely courtyard, this one with what looks like a top notch restaurant in the middle. We were both amazed by the level of attention to this display; more like an art gallery than a museum it tracks cultures from 1,100BC to Incan with intelligent descriptors, if slightly OTT, in Spanish, French and English. 20Soles.
Inca museum: Tracks the history of the Incas and is worth a visit despite the exhibit descriptors being only part complete. Incredible to think they only operated for little more than 100 years.
Museum of Religious Art: A stunning building with part of the original Incan wall still in place. Not my cup of tea when it comes to artwork - there's only so many images of Spanish kings or Jesus on a cross that I can take but it's a good distraction from endless Pisco Sours (more on that in a bit). Get a guide however as there's no descriptions at all.
What did we miss? Even dedicating 11 days to Cusco wasn't enough. A return trip is on the cards.
Main cathedral on Plaza de Armes.
The Planetarium above town takes you through Incan astronomical skills and then offers star gazing tours
Sacred Valley: Driving to or from Machu Picchu you pass through it but there's so much to see from ruins to fantastical amphitheatre-esq structures built for scientific and agricultural experimentation.
Sacsayhuaman: Archeological site above town and far quieter than Machu Picchu. Gutted we never made it there.
Clothing
Let's get this one out of the way as it's already taken ages and I can't give it more airtime. Cusco is 'IT' for those who like souvenirs whether they be llama jumpers, alpaca beanies, ornamental bulls and everything in between.
I will admit that I purchased my fair share, but thank goodness for luggage limitations as Lisa had to calm her desires - even a Sherpa has limits to what he can carry!
Personal favourites are the colourful bulls which represent different personal qualities and get offered to families with new homes. A nice touch and something to join our skulls, masks, giraffes and llamas already waiting for our Australian return. Lisa fell in love with ... one of a few quality boutique offerings, and briefly got lost in a discount cave where a jumper, leg warmers and gloves set her back about AUS$13.
Now that respect has been paid to Incan history, and we've wished through shopping we can focus on what makes us all tick - food and booze👌. So let's start of with people's morning ritual.
So in love with this hat
Excuse me llama
Coffee
Overshadowed by famous coffee neighbours Peru does offer a good drop and more importantly pairs it with mouthwatering cakes - there's always time for cake right!
Cafe Loco: Perched above Plaza San Blas with views across the city it offers a Cuban-esq sandwich and decent coffee. Very chilled.
Meeting Place: Nestled on Plaza San Blas a cute internal courtyard opens up to tiny side rooms where you can enjoy organic local coffee and a chunk of incredible white and milk chocolate cake. They also help out a charity sponsoring underfunded school kids; a quality local touch.
Siete y Siete: Up above San Blas as well with a stunning vista of all Cusco has to offer. Based around 7 selections of coffees, cakes, salads ect. all that taste great. We had poor service however and the atmosphere is a little sterile.
Cafe y Chocolate: Tucked in a side street close to Plaza de Armes (main square) this cozy cafe offers killer sandwiches, a wide selection of cakes and decent coffee. Bear in mind their macchiato is like a cappuccino😳
It's not a picture of coffee - but this dawg is cute
Cuisine
We've been travelling for 9 months and apart from random restaurants or Mexico...mmm fish tacos, the food hasn't warranted writing home about. That's until now. Peru is fast becoming a world centre for food and Cusco is knocking at Limas door to claim the crown. Here's our pick of the best:
Uchu: Suggested to us by Dan and Meg who we shared our Salt Flats adventure with this Peruvian steakhouse serves up the best meat outside of Argentina alongside great ceviche and a decent wine selection. Bonus is you cook your own meat on a hot stone. Full immersion eating!
Marcela Batata: Rooftop terrace, stunning presentation and a central location all work in favour for this modern take on Peruvian food. Service could be better but we're realising it's a South American cultural issue instead of an individual establishments fault.
Cicciolina: A lunch must. Mediterranean tapas all served in a great 2nd floor setting. We ate in the bar area, a first come first serve deal. Decorated with chandeliers made from garlic or dried chilies you can easily while away a few hours choosing from the indulgent tapas or sharing a bottle of red. Beware the cocktails as there's 2 sizes and unless you ask for a small you'll get and be charged for a large.
La Bodega 138: A stylish Italian inspired eatery which set us up perfectly for the next day's early start to a 5 day trek. Usually treated as a skiing dish I indulged in spaghetti carbonara while Lisa ate her greens like a good girl. Both were fantastic.
La Osteria: Quiant yet classy eatery tucked off a side street but worth checking out
Jacks: In Lonely Planet and full of tourists. I personally avoid these spots but for a taste of home or to cure a hangover (yep Pisco Sours strike again) it's a good bet. Portions are huge and they'll take your order from the queue to speed things up.
I also heard great things about Chicha and Pacha Papa but you can't eat everywhere. Or can you?
Cocktails
ow this is where I should hand over the writing reins to Lisa, our resident Pisco queen but she's still reeling from her latest session so I'll do my best.
Republica del Pisco: No prizes for guessing what the drink of choice is in this establishment. Classic or with ginger ale, fruit based or create your own, it's all catered for here. Sit in a semi-circle booth and enjoy happy hour 20Sole for 2.
Yunsa opposite Cafe Loco was an escape from tourists and offered happy hour from 3pm with 2 for 15Soles 🍸
Cholos Cerveceria: A random craft beer bar for when you need a change from Pisco. In a small courtyard opposite Uchu restaurant.
Museo del Pisco: Again no prizes for their speciality. Stumbled in here after a long dinner and already multiple Pisco's down. Live music and open late. Worth it.
The Norton is a pub with a balcony overlooking Plaza de Armes. If you like dart boards and pool tables then this is our venue. We just people watched before heading out of town to the desert.
Republic of Pisco
Comfort
Luxe hotels, Cusco has you covered. Cheap massages, all over it. Fully catered tours, just ask Salkantay Trekking.
We stayed at Tayta Wasi which is 12mins walk from Plaza de Armes. It's not fancy but has great wifi and was what we needed. Looking to up your bed game then head to Belmond Hotel Monasterio. Any place that has an opera night advertised instead of 'free breakfast' is a sure bet.
If easing pain post-trek is more your style of comfort then you're in luck. I'd say masseuses outnumber bartenders 2:1 in Cusco, it's ridiculous. We chose an outfit next to Salkantay Trekking as they come highly recommended, gave us a discount once our trek was complete and have a resident chiro. I've never heard so many cracks come from a body but writing this while chilling by a pool I'm glad he set me up for relaxation.
Lots to take in, yes. Worth a few more days, for sure. Too many people are treating Cusco, and Peru for that point, as the location of Machu Picchu thanks to its status as a New Wonder of the World but there's so much more to it. I implore you to throw yourself in and not just hit and run.
This is Cusco
Yep it's a random Peruvian wedding
Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa
