Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu

“Taking the alternative road to Machu Picchu: 5 days, 80km, a 4,600m pass and named among the top 25 treks in the world by National Geographic. Salkantay Trek was quite the journey.”

The five day Salkantay Trek is fast becoming the biggest rival to the Inca Trail. Snowcapped mountains meet lush jungle with the grand finale landing you at Machu Picchu. While we would have loved to retrace the steps of the Inca’s, committing to a specific trekking date in order to secure a permit was near impossible. But the Salkantay Trail did not disappoint.

Anxiety levels were running high when meeting our fellow trekkers - were we going to get loud-mouths, slow Sunday-walkers or dead-set legends. Lucky for us, it was love at first site meeting our crew, soon to be known as ‘family’ - yes it’s as cult-like as it sounds. Roll call please: 3 Dutch (Mark, Christina & Ferdy), 2 Brazilians (Alexandra & Vinicius), 2 Irish (Phil & Anastasia), 1 Japanese living in Australia (Erina), our guide Angelo - and us (Sherpa and Lady-Client).

The 'family'. Sherpa wrapped me in plastic pronouncing 'plastic fantastic' #engrish

5 days of trekking isn’t for everyone; it rained for three of the five days, my shoes fell apart, my clothes literally started speaking to me as a result of no showers and you need a high tolerance of young American college students and their obnoxiously loud announcements that they are taking selfies. And that cheeky Sherpa, once he knew we had porters and donkeys, he relieved himself of all responsibilities.

Along the trek, I learnt a few things; I’m a downhill specialist and an uphill enthusiast, I love being woken up at 5am with a hot cup of coca tea, the Incas were seriously clever people, the Spanish were destroyers and mountains make me happy.

Everyday, there was more natural beautiful than you can imagine.

Day 1
Highlight of the day: our first steep climb to a turquoise lake revealing a mirror reflection of the mountains above. Pacha Mama put on a show treating us to a snow waterfall (avalanche).

Before bed, the local Sharman performed a traditional ceremony blessing the mountains, us and our safe passage. Keep us safe Pacha Mama.

Sleeping under the stars in domes fit for kings was a treat. If it wasn't so cloudy, we could have stargazed until slumber came for us.

Our dome homes from which to gaze at the stars

Day 2
Highlight of the day: hiking around Salkantay Mountain, up to the 4,600m pass via the 7 snakes trail then dropping 1,700m down the valley.

Salkantay Mountain hiding behind the clouds

Day 3
Highlight of the day: after 5 hours trekking (beating all rival groups), we could kick back in the local thermal baths while sipping pisco sours before retreating to our campsite bonfire.

Hot springs aka my first bath in 4 days *ewe*

Day 4
There’s no better way to start a hike than dropping into a coffee farm - it gave us all a little boost before our morning climb from 2,100m to 2,900m.

Highlight of the day: getting our first glimpse of Machu Picchu from across and below the valley.

Machu Picchu sits perched on the mountain

Arriving at pretty little Aguas Calientes

Celebrating our hike, ‘family’ went out for pisco sours in Aguas Calientes to an aptly named place: Machu Pisco (seriously). We got to make our own to the tune of ‘Shaky, Shaky’ by Daddy Yankee. Anyone who has been to Central and South America will recognise this song as the continents theme song.

Day 5
Highlight of the day: exploring Machu Picchu!

Sherpa and I both have this strange competitive streak. There is no way we would be taking the tourist bus up to see Machu Picchu - no sir. We were both pumped to climb the 2,000 stairs to the top. Kicking off at 4.30am, we braved the line and got a good start, only about 100 people back from the front. Sherpa killed it and got to the top in 29 minutes while I came in at 45 minutes - miles ahead of the pack. The only draw-back to charging up the stairs is you arrive at the quintessential photo-op spot dripping in sweat - but it makes for a brilliant memory.

Take a look at our experience at Machu Picchu in our picture post - coming soon!

RIP shoes. Thank you for an intrepid 9 months. A word to ASICS: your shoes have quality issues - my lace underwear outlasted your trail shoes. They started falling apart at 6 months and that was after 4 months in Central America where I wore my sturdy Havaianas. When you responded to my email and insisted it was ‘wear and tear’, I can only interpret that what you meant was ‘I wear and the shoes tear’. Customer lost.

DO IT
Salkantay Trekking are the best in the business (for our budget!). The food was excellent, their equipment is top notch and Angelo our guide was the most knowledgeable and spiritual gentleman we’ve met on this trip.

Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa