Into the Bolivian Amazon
Have you ever stopped to wonder what it would have been like to be an early explorer of the Amazon Jungle in the 1800s - one of the last explored frontiers on the planet? Stories of lost cities, ancient civilisations and unchartered terrain enticed the most courageous of explorers. Of course, these days, exploring the amazon is a synch but a wild adventure all the same.
There are many places from which to explore the Amazon. Brazil is at the top of my list but will have to wait for another trip. For now, our options were Equador, Peru and Bolivia - so while in Bolivia, we decided to jump in.
“The Amazon rainforest is the largest tropical ecosystem on the planet, covering an area of South America close to the size of the continental United States. It houses the greatest abundance of life on Earth and thousands of indigenous people rely on this forest for their livelihoods. The Amazon’s forests are so vast they help moderate our planet’s weather patterns and provide natural protection against climate change. Unfortunately, our excessive demands on the Amazon’s natural resources have started an imbalance that could result in losing all of this in a very short time. At the current rate of destruction, the amazon could be gone in 40 years. ”
The magestic heron
Serere Eco Reserve at sunset
Journey to the Amazon
Our journey took us from La Paz to Madidi Reserve in the Bolivian Jungle. La Paz is unlike any city I have encountered. Never was it more evident than when we flew out at 7am witnessing the misty magic of the city that sits on the roof of the world. With the Andes surrounding it on all sides, La Paz and all its crowded housing sits in a bowl, cascading over every surface. At dawn, the clouds hang low over the city, allowing just the tips of the snow capped mountains to peak through - and all is eerily still.
The La Paz airport sits just outside the city ‘bowl’ on a high stretch of the altiplano which is a sprawling mass of exposed brick buildings. Standing on the runway at 4,000m, the 6,000m high Andes mountains don’t seem as big as they should. Needless to say, it didn't take long for our aeroplane to reach its cruising altitude after take off.
Flying over the Andes is remarkable - as if you are soaring amongst angels above the world. The jagged peaks of the Andes are almost within arms reach and they stretch as far as they eyes can see. How quickly it changes. Ten short minutes into the flight and the Andes transform into a green carpet that rolls into the Amazon jungle - a seemingly endless and dense mass of green that looks impassable. We were entering a whole new world.
Rurrenabaque to Serere Reserve
Landing on a strip of runway in Rurrenabaque, we had arrived at the gateway to the Bolivian Amazon. It’s hot, steamy and where we jumped aboard our little little log boat to take us 3 hours up Rio Beni, through the Madidi National Park to Serere Eco Reserve where we would spend the next three days.
Arriving at Rurrenbaque
Hitching a private ride into the Amazon
The nimble wooden boats of the Amazon
Serere Eco Reserve sits just outside the Madidi National Park, 19,000 sqkm that stretches from the peaks of the Andes to the rainforests of Bolivia. Madidi National Park is one of the most biologically and culturally diverse protected areas in the world and is home to a large range of habitats and climates.
In choosing Serere Eco Reserve (Madidi Travel), we were opting to visit the Amazon Rainforest with a conservation company, not a tour agency - something that is essential to protect this precious part of the world. Much of the Madidi National Park is under threat from the growing number of irresponsible tour operators claiming to be eco-friendly but are corrupt, reckless and are chasing a dollar.
Founder of the Eco Bolivia Foundation and Madidi Travel (Serere Eco Reserve), Rosa Maria Ruiz has established an exceptional example of conservation. She has gone to great lengths to conserve this part of the world, while sharing it with like-minded travellers seeking a genuine jungle experience. Serere Reserve is as eco-friendly as possible; no electricity, food from the land and leaving the smallest possible footprint on the environment. Madidi Travel works in partnership with the local communities, employing many of the local Madidi Mosaic Community and works with them on environmental programmes to raise awareness of the importance of their environment - and is 100% against exploitation of the indigenous community.
The moment you arrive, things get wild. The jungle is a wild place where your senses are pushed to the brink. Almost as impressive as what you see is what you hear and smell. Serere Reserve was peppered with continuous sounds; the call of the large variety of birds, croaks of frogs, booming thunder that rolls past, squeals from squirrel monkeys, growl of distant howler monkeys, haunting buzz of mosquitos and the hustle, bustle and rustle from wildlife in the canopy above. The smells act as your guide whether it be the freshness after the rain, fruit that monkey’s drop or a fresh kill from a jaguar. Other smells are more of a punch in the face like the stench of your deet festering on your sweaty skin or your three day old clothes. All the sights, sounds and smells are wrapped up in a thick layer of humidity.
Serere Eco Reserve is completely private, protecting the wildlife from hunters and opportunists. It has 5 lakes to explore and over 4,000 hectares of land with trails to blaze. Over three days, we crept, canoed and cuddled in the jungle.
Hiking into Serere Reserve
The main jungle hut at Serere Eco Reserve
Jungle jubes
10 amazing Amazon experiences at Serere Eco Reserve:
#1 Floating on Gringo Lake, looking for anacondas at sunset
Gently paddling our wooden canoe on Gringo Lake, putting ourselves in the hands of the local wildlife was unnerving. The caimans and birds watch you, the frogs sing to you and you can’t see them but you know those mighty anacondas are right below you.
A prehistoric bird - hoatzin
#2 Waking up to sounds of the howler monkeys while squirrel monkeys play outside our cabana
No alarm clock will ever compare to the monkey’s of the Amazon.
#3 Sleeping in our open air cabana, the human zoo
A thatched roof hut with no windows, in their place are fly screens allowing us to hear every sound of the jungle. Perhaps it is us, the humans, that are on display for the animals to observe? A human zoo?
#4 Cruising with caimans
Territorial, sneaky and curious creatures. A 3m beauty popped up to check us out at breakfast each day - perhaps eyeing us off as his very own snack. The real up-close experience came inder the dark night sky when we (stupidly) decided to take a canoe on the lake to get caiman spotting. At night, by shining your torch across the water, you can catch their eyes glowing red - spooky! Cruising close to the reeves in the shallows in the dark, we accidentally nudged one and he was not happy, ferociously bashing our canoe almost launching himself inside with us. I won’t repeat my commentary.
Stealth-like caiman
#5 Learning to live off the land
All the food we ate at Serere Eco Reserve was cultivated on the land. Bush chicken, yukka, lime, grapefruits - it’s as fresh as it gets. We wandered through the jungle picking fruit, learning which trees poison people, which heal people, how to hide from animals, how to find animals and basically realised I would be a dead within days if left to my own devices.
Pantry envy?
Pina
Dan catching our grapefruit
Grapefruit doesn't get fresher than this
Grapefruits
This is how you drink a grapefruit
#6 Emil our jungle guide
Emil our guide is a genuine amazon man of the land. He spent hours generously sharing his knowledge and passion for the rainforest. His grandfather taught him his razor sharp amazon skills and soon, Emil will teach his son the same. What endeared me the most was his flawless ability to mimic the calls of the wildlife. When he whistled for eagles, they responded and circled above. When he imitated the call of the caiman, they surfaced. Monkey's? Sure, which variety would you like to appear? On and on this went. It was utterly amazing.
Emil, our guide
#7 Fishing for piranhas
Just a line, hook and a piece of meat and these toothy suckers will bite. It was amateur hour in our canoe - if we were relying on what we caught to survive, we would fail.
Prianah fishing
Look at those pearly whites
My contribution to the fishing expedition was pathetic
#8 Searching for sloths
These cuties never fail to disappoint. This guy had a prime waterfront spot.
Eye spy with my little eye....something beginning with 'S'
Through the binoculars
#9 “Mosquitos - influencing Amazon fashion"
The minute we stepped off the boat we were greeted by out hosts - mosquitos. Mosquitos and I have faced a lifelong battle, sent to this planet to agitate me. They are my arch nemesis and upon entering their Amazonian territory, all precautions had to be taken to ensure my survival. Style was forced aside as Captain Practical donned white pants, a white shirt and a full face mosquito net to keep the bastards at bay - all binned without delay at the end of the trip. I’m happy to report that this hideous combination worked a treat and while my ego took a beating, I returned from the amazon with hardly a nibble. Sadly, I can’t say the same for my fellow amigos who, while looking on trend in their black attire, suffered from mucho munches.
Pajama-chic but Amazon ready #hydrationstation
Bad taste but mosquito proof
#10 A great crew
People make your experience, and our crew was no exception. Nothing but jungle love for these peeps.
The 'Loads & Heaps' Squad
Our animal hit list:
tapir
parrots
macaws
sloths
caimans
butterflies
bull ants
fire ants
monkeys: spider, howler, capuchin and squirrel
piranhas
herons
eagles
that weird but beautiful prehistoric bird
water rats
vultures
anaconda bubbles in the water
spiders
thankfully no snakes were spotted
bugs and insects galore
Killer centipedes (kind-of)
The friendliest tapir in all of the land
A little smooch from Sir Tapir
Water rat
DO IT
Madidi Travel is a conservation group. They rescued the land from a previous Israeli owner who all but destroyed the area and wildlife on it. Now, it is thriving. They offer 3 day to 25 day experiences - completely tailored to you. An experience to put on your bucket list.
If you find yourself in Rurrenabaque, the launch pad for the Amazon, here are some tips:
DO
Watch a local football match on Sundays at the central field
Find and buy a mosquito net for face
EAT & DRINK
La Bella Italia fo pizza made by the most delightful Italian lady
Luz Mar for menu of the day
Unmissable pastries at The French Bakery
SLEEP
El Curichal - with a big pool, hammocks, pub trivia and bbqs. AU$25 for private room and bathroom. Good cheap laundry service for your stinky amazon clothes - if you haven't burnt them already
Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa
