Trekking the 'W' Torres del Paine

Deep in southern Patagonia, there’s an iconic trek just begging to be done - the ‘W’. Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is a sizeable jewel in Chile’s crown and is home to the 2000m granite pillars - Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine).

On a clear day the panoramas of Southern Patagonia will give you some perspective as to your place in this world. Surrounded by the endless Andes mountain range, turquoise blue lakes, glaciers and rugged landscapes, you’ll feel a tad small.

Our route
71km in length, the ‘W’ trek gets its name from the shape of the route the path takes but it could also be short for ‘wow’. We trekked west to east which was an accidental stroke of genius from me as it allowed us to see Torres at sunrise and had us bounding out of the park on a mega-high. The trek was a very easy 5 days and four nights - but the weather took it from easy to tough.

It begins: taking the boat over Lake Pehoe to start trekking from Refugio Paine Grande

Day 1: a waterfall on route to Glacier Grey

Day 1: looking out to Glacier Grey, our destination for night one.

Day 4: horses refuelling Refugio El Chileno

A lone Guanaco taking in the vistas of Torres del Paine

Day 1: Catamaran across Lago Pehoe from Salto Grande to Paine Grande. Hike to Grey Glacier Refugio (10km)

Day 2: Glacier Grey to Paine Grande Refugio (10km)

Day 3: Paine Grande Refugio to Italiano Ranger Station (7.5km) and leave packs there. Hike up the Frances Valley (13km return). Pick up packs and continue to Frances Refugio (2km).

Day 4: Frances Refugio to El Chileno Refugio (14km approx.)

Day 5: El Chileno to Torres del Paine peaks (8km return). El Chileno to Park Entrance (13km).

Here's a really good blog article by a clever man about the specifics and practicalities of this route for those into detail.

Diverse terrain
It’s a rewarding trek with nature showcasing her best. Lago Grey with Glacier Grey creeping upon it (rivalling Perito Moreno Glacier). Valle Frances takes you up a valley alongside a roaring river and will further impress you with intermittent, thunderous booms of Glacier Frances calving off and sliding down the mountain. You’ll cross suspension bridges, perfectly pebbled beaches, emerald forests and on a clear day you can see every looming mountain peak of the surrounding Andes. Then the finale of seeing Torres del Paine at sunrise puts the feather in the cap.

Day 3: Valle Frances and it's impressive glaciers calving off the mountain

Day 3: the bridge before the beautiful hike up Valle Fances

Day 4: on a beach and looking lost (standard client-lady)

Four seasons in one day
It’s a mixed bag when it comes to weather. Winds that knock you off your feet, sunshine that makes the lakes and glaciers glisten, rain that keeps your toes soggy and a chill that cuts to the bone. But it’s all worth it.

Refugio vs camping
To the hardcore trekkers we kind-of cheated and I offer no apologies. We alternated our sleeping arrangements; night one in a refugio, night two in a tent, night three back in a refugio and night four in a blasted f*cking tent again. I have no need to be a hero - the refugio’s are perfectly built, warm, cosy shelters with heavenly beds, heaters and a bar. It takes some of the pain out of a trek that featured 3 days of rain.

Things I learnt about myself
I took dirty to a whole new level. I was so dirty that my filth created its own eco system - I’m pretty sure I had animals nestled on me, burrowing in for the ride. It’s the kind of grime that takes two showers and 4 rounds of washing clothes to consider them clean. I’m not saying I’m comfortable being dirty but I sure as hell wore it well. I stooped to all new levels of low - even reaching back into my dirty clothes back to rewear socks I had previously considered dirty. Little did I know I could force another few more days out of those puppies.

Day 3: valley's, lakes, mountains - it's got it all

Day 5: trekking out, motivated by a shower

Do it again?
Absolutely! Completing the 'O trek' that takes you the full way around the park (including the back of the national park) would be well worth some extra nights in a tent. It's more remote and apparently spectacular. Many would consider Parque Nacional Torres del Paine the best in South America. I’d agree that it’s up there but has some competition as you can see from our other posts. I’m talking about you El Chalten and Tierre del Fuego.

Day tripping?
Or don't want to camp? Here are two recommendations for you.

Day walk 1: Torres del Paine
Starting from Hotel Las Torres, take the main path up to the Torres. It's 19km round trip - 9.5km all up hill to reach Torres then 9.5km all downhill to return (deer).

But there's an alternate option that will help you see sunrise at the Torres. It involves an overnight stay half way up the hike but no need to have camping gear or food with you (shoulders and legs say yay!).

Drive or bus to Hotel Las Torres. In the afternoon, hike 5.5km up to El Chileno Refugio where you will spend the night. A booking is essential. Make sure you book full board so you can have dinner that night then breakfast and lunch the next day and make some new friends.

Once you're at El Chileno, you're only a 4km hike from the Torres (8km return to El Chileno). If the weather's good, walk up that afternoon so you have an advantage when you're hiking in the dark the next morning. Return for dinner at El Chileno. Get an early night then wake at 5am for the 4km hike up to see sunrise (if you're lucky). After sunrise, walk 4km back to El Chileno in time for a hot breakfast. Then it's an all down hill 5.5km walk back down to the hotel. Done!

Day walk 2: Glacier Grey
Take the 9am catamaran from Puerto S to Paine Grande. From there it's a 22km hike(return) to Glacier Grey taking in some spectacular vistas of the lake and the mountains.

Once you reach Refugio Grey, walk about an hour past the lookout so you can get up close and personal with the glacier. Then return to Paine Grande for the 5pm catamaran. There's a bar (reset expectations to a window that sells wine) at Paine Grande so you can have some vino while you wait.

Day 2: spooky yet spectacular walk from Paine Grande to Valle Frances

Day 5: trending: new season sleeping bags - all the rage for sunrise treks.

Tips:

Get familiar with the park circuit map to plan your trip
Book in advance. As of October 2016, it is mandatory to have a booking at the camp sites and refugios. There are two companies operating half the lodges and campsites each. Annoyingly, there is no central place to book so you have to check availability with each place separately which is a pain! Here are the two companies: Fantastico Sur and Vertice
Park entry fees are here
Know the bus and ferry timetable
There’s a great campsite Camping Pehoe near the ferry port if you want to arrive the day prior to your walk for an early start.
Take plenty of cash and have your passport on you for the walk