Frolicking around the Fitz

When I thought of Patagonia the first images to spring to mind were those of jagged mountain ranges, endless green plains and a solitary, exposed feel. I found this in spades thanks to the cute hiking village of El Chaltén.

Hastily built by The Argentinians in the mid-80's to lay claim to this section of Parque Nacional del Glaciers, it sits in the shadows of Argentina's answer to The Matterhorn - Cerro Fitz Roy.

A staple on any hiker or climbers Andean Hit List, the only problem is getting good weather to experience this region in all it's majestic glory. Thankfully we got very LUCKY 🍀 !

Based in the village for 4 nights we completed the 3 must-do day hikes, with the fickle beast that weather is providing the sensational backdrops when required.

If you're heading this way then I'd recommend attacking the range (weather dependant) like so:

Day 1: Stretch the legs on a 20km round trip to Laguna Torre. The routes majority takes you along a river bank making it easy going, while at the trail's end you're offered up a view over azure waters complete with icebergs to a glacier and the aggressively striking peaks of Cerro Torre.

Even the small chunks aren't small (check out the guy on the left)

Day 2: Time to get your hiking legs going! Although only just longer than day 1 at 22km this one has a rugged 3km climb to start before finishing with a 400m kicker over only 1,000m - that's almost 1:2 😬. Worth the effort as most of your route will showcase the mighty Fitz Roy, while the Mirador at the summit has you standing before a glacial lake and below the range's highest peak at 3,359m. This one takes your breathe away for more reasons that one. It gets pretty windy too!

A 'Lisa'...rarely seen in its natural environment

Looking east towards Lago Viedma and it's surround desert landscape

Rare sighting of the male Magellanic woodpecker (Carpintero Gigante)

Day 3 - The Fitz Roy Massif: If like us you're fine with backing up day after day then you've saved the best till last. Though day 2's hike is more picturesque during the middle section, this one delivers the knockout 🤛. 3 peaks dominate the area and you'll see them all multiple times. It's tempting to stop after almost 11km's but please put the extra effort in and climb the stupidly steep peak to be gifted with 360 degree views of lagoons, lakes, desert landscapes, rolling hills and of course the entire range. Words can't express so I'll stop now.

So spectacular it looks fake...promise you it isn't.

Smiles for what feels like the top of the world

IN TOWN:

There's plenty of options to refuel the body if not the van, so go hard with the hiking and reward yourself later.

La Chocolateria. The name says it all - hot chocolate that's not too sweet (add booze if you like), insane cakes and to-die-for homemade chocolates. Set in a cute wooden shack it's a must, and carries a true après ski feel
B&B for a burger and beer. I can't go anywhere without hunting out and sampling my staple meal.
When in Argentina its accepted you'll eat empanadas at least once a day. To get your fix head to Che Empanada on the Main Street. In a small tin building dedicated to Che Guevara (he's Argentinian after all) you'll find flavours such as BBQ Pork and Bacon, Plum and Walnut. Not to be missed.
For drinking almost everywhere sells craft beer and Malbec. The best however is La Vineria with over 180 wines and 70 beers. Note: happy hour isn't shared so if you need just 'one more' you'll have 2 instead 🍷. Cheers

We stayed at Camping El Relincho with hot showers, good toilets, plenty of space for the van and a communal kitchen / dining area. Value was standard for the area at ARG$350 incl. van.