Can you afford Costa Rica?
Pre-disclaimer: I just want to say it’s my constitutional right to have and share my opinion about the democratic, level-headed and non-egotistical Americans. I god-damn love Americans. What a gosh-darn great nation. I've resided, vacationed, and transited there. Buddies of mine are strewn all across the proud land, and overseas. I couldn’t be more down with enhancing their awesome reputation as well-travelled, educated, and free-thinking friends. Appreciate your time.
This is my attempt to outline why, if you’re traveling with a backpack, a budget, and (most likely) for a considerable duration, Costa Rica is expensive.
The post was going to just focus on why Costa Rica costs so much, but I’ve been convinced to stop being a hater and spread some joy first - then I can bitch and moan but productively.
Sandwiched between Nicaragua and Panama with the Pacific and Caribbean lapping at it’s shores, we’d heard Costa Rica was expensive but no one explained how or why in any detail. If you’re a backpacker you’ll just say it costs a lot and then talk about your positive experiences, cost-wise or other - anything to not discuss wasting budget. Everyone else can afford it so the cost doesn’t factor into their conversation.
Trust me, we’ve had some great experiences here but compared to other Central American countries it struggles to compete and its not just down to money…that’s just the standout factor for us.
Best freebies (this is Costa Rican for doesn’t cost TOO much):
Free hot springs outside La Fortuna. Shown on Maps.me so it’s easy to find.
Eat at Soda’s, the local restaurants. A meal will still set you back USD$7-10pp without booze but it’s quality food for the most part, and locals often provide better entertainment and people watching than tourists
Enjoy Playa Espadilla (it’s a beach) just outside Manuel Antonio National Park. A gorgeous stretch of sand and gently breaking waves which you don’t have to pay for.
Catarata Llanos de Cortés which is 2km’s off The Pan American Highway outside of Bagaces only costs USD$5 for parking and security (I reckon if the security attendants weren’t there with their mates then it would be perfectly safe anyway) and a donation to the local school. A truly stunning waterfall with a refreshing pool at it’s base.
Rent cruiser bikes in Puerto Viejo (approx. USD$10pp) and cycle to any one of the free glorious beaches along this stretch of Caribbean coastline.
Stay in hostels with a kitchen to save a few bucks on breakfasts.
Why it hurts the wallet so much:
Let me start by saying Costa Rica has geared itself towards tourists with money. Approaching tourism this way is their prerogative but it's a major shame for backpackers who are able to mix it with holidaying tourists throughout the rest of Central America, while having a great time and staying within the confines of a daily budget.
As for tourism, it’s a simple concept. The intrepid travellers start to visit a location and the early money rolls in, infrastructure and amenities improve, more tourists come, demand increases so the price goes up.
Difference is that when Americans decide to arrive they invariably come with endless US Dollars and a desire for everything to be bigger, better and faster. This naturally drives up prices because, as they’re happy to pay them at home, why should a vacation beside a gorgeous beach be any different. Problem is other tourists bear the brunt of this - backpackers just can’t justify certain costs and this affects their’s, and our ability to join in.
Note: I’m not US bashing - they’re doing enough of this by themselves thanks to a laughing stock of an election…and don’t get me started on Time Magazine ‘Man of the Year’ award! I’m simply stating a fact of how they like to travel. Oh, and they’re not the only ones who happily spend equivalent (or more) when on holiday / vacation, but elsewhere in Central America that’s just not necessary.
Here’s some Costa Rican justifications on their bulging tourism industry:
Everything carries a cost. Whether it’s security for parking or driving down private roads, even if they’re on the main tourist route to a national park
Further to this, you’ll pay for each and every national park. Standard practice in other countries as well, but when you’re trying to keep accommodation to less than AUD$35 per night, spending AUD$40 for entrance to a small park hurts like hell.
The Americans are here. This is not a slight against my ‘across the pond’ cousins, it’s a fact. Once a country is on the map (both from a safety and desirability standpoint, but also that they’ve heard of it) they’ll come in droves. They bring US Dollars which most countries willingly accept, and happily spend the same price at home while travelling overseas.
Prices keep rising. Costa Rica’s inflation rate for 2014 was 2.88%. Quickly comparing our ‘Central America on a Shoestring’ Lonely Planet guide to this figure has shown tourist fees rose by 30-40% on average in two years! Oh, the guide’s helpful but prices are just a tad off.
Activities are everywhere. The adrenaline junky in you can very easily go mountain biking, rent an all-terrain vehicle (ATV), whitewater raft, zip line across the cloud forest canopy, and horseback ride through coffee plantations. Assuming you do each one of these expect your wallet to be USD$500 lighter.
Home cooking ain’t that cheap. Homemade dinners haven’t been fillet mignon, more like eggs, tin tuna and some veggies, but anything more than this and you might as well eat out - and when it’s a close call and you’ve only got one plate…you eat out :)
Sales tax and tips. Both are understood as worldwide concepts, however when the tax (13% in Costa Rica) isn’t included in the menu costs (instead hidden in the fine print) you get a little shock. Oh and because of tourism and Americans (yep, I’m blaming them again), 10% service is added to all bills. Yes you can remove it but tell me - how many times in all the years you’ve eaten out have you actively refused to pay the tip, especially when it’s only USD$2-3 and everyone working has less than you.
This last part is the typical battle any backpacking adventurer has to weigh up. Do they resent parting with valuable $$ for service charges they didn’t have a choice over, or does the greater good of providing for those less fortunate win out? ****
To conclude my brain dump of feelings and findings, I understand what Costa Rica has done. I understand why American’s, and other nationals visit this lush, accessible, and entertaining country. What I don’t get, and this is said with a backpackers hat firmly on my head, is why everyone, everywhere has jacked up the price for everything.
There’ll be some of you out there who say this is the way of the world, and when I was an employed member of society I guess I’d have agreed only too freely. Problem is our travels have taken us through enough countries, tourism hotspots, and mind-blowing locations to see that there’s still space for everyone to fit in - budgeting and all.
OK, constructive rant over. We’re now off to Panama for more Caribbean living-it-up…hopefully on the cheap!
**** Note: Restaurant service in Australia is shocking more often than it’s exceptional, mainly as service industries pay proper wages (a great thing) but this leads to a reduction in effort level when tips aren’t your livelihood. Thanks to this I have become accustomed to not tipping or leaving less than 10% when it’s not up to scratch.
