Summiting Acatenango Volcano

There is only one thing that can make you feel smaller than a mountain, and that's a volcano, or three.

Towering over the cobblestone streets of Antigua in Guatemala are 3 volcanos; Agua, Acatenango and Fuego. While two are dormant (since 1972), Fuego is most definitely not and will light up the sky with lava shows just to show you who's boss.

Crazy as it may seem, the challenge of summiting Acatenango Volcano for a birdseye view of fiery Fuego Volcano held enormous appeal. Who wouldn’t want to climb Acatenango Volcano that sits so close to Fuego - the world’s most constantly erupting volcano?

The trip goes something like this; hike up a big hill (aka volcano), camp near the top, summit the next morning then wander down. Sound good?

The reality was even more incredible than we could have imagined. Here's why:

Volcanos are big:

Acatenango Volcano stands at 3,972m high. You can hike right to the very top and circumnavigate the 660m crater rim for sunrise, sunset and just to witness the beauty this world beholds. For the crazies, the Crater Run Challenge will suck the air out of you. It’s a 660m dash around the rim of the volcano - the record sits at 2mins 20sec by some crazy local guide / mountain goat. Sherpa did it in 4min 30sec and was left a broken man. Poor fellow, at this height there is 35% less oxygen.

Ready for the long march ahead - where the hell is my Sherpa?

As close as we've been to the top of the world

Sherpa struggling to breathe on his Crater Run Challenge

Nature knows how to put on a show:

Leaving our eruption expectations down in Antigua, we would have been satisfied with a few puffs of ash. This was not the case. Instead, we got the triple whammy of nature shows shortly after our tents were pitched. As the sun dropped behind the volcano, offering up shades of pink and orange, Fuego started erupting. It was clear that our camping location held the premium vantage point. Big explosions of lava catapulted into the sky and flowed down its side. To top it off, an electric lightning storm lit up the dusk sky as the lava show continued. Not even Peter Jackson could have conjured up such dramatic flair.

Continual eruptions of smoke, ash and lava

Active volcanos are loud:

You won't hear soft murmurs coming from our friend Fuego, rather thunderous, ground-shaking booms. All. Night. Long. Try to sleep at 3,450m with a neighbouring volcano erupting throughout the night. You’re so close to Fuego that you’ll wake from your light slumber convinced that Acatenango Volcano (the one you lie on) is erupting, breaking it’s 44 year hibernation. A broken sleep can be forgiven - it's not often you get to say that a volcano kept you up all night.

Curvature of the earth to start your day anyone?

Sunrise summits leave you breathless:

Reaching the 3,972m pre-dawn is nothing short of amazing. The 4am climb is worth every breathless step. It’s dark, it’s cold, it’s quiet (apart from the occasional eruption from Fuego) and it’s high. As the sun starts to break on a new day, you’re so high that you’ll see the curvature of the earth. The rays of light cut through the dawn clouds to reveal 360 degree views of Guatemala. There are no words.

The Pacific Ocean in the haze to the right - over 100km away

Volcan de Agua preparing for another day

You can ski (on ash):

Reaching the top requires sheer grunt. Often it's one step up, two steps back as your feet try to find something steady in amongst the sandy and rocky volcanic scree. But coming down is a different story. Planting your heel down first, the steep slope and sandy scree gives you a platform to basically ski without skis. It's a welcome respite for your legs and seriously fun.

Images can't do justice to the slopes angle or fun factor!

Terrific terrain:

From the bottom to the top you'll climb through distinctly different terrain; through corn fields and cloud forests to pine tree woodlands, wild flower patches and finally volcanic scree.

Hard up, easy down...and the view's not bad either

Easy to imagine an eruption tearing through here

Cloud forests make quite a change from the volcanic scree

Top tips for an epic volcano experience:

It’s a hike - dress for a hike. You’ll also carry your own pack with tent, sleeping bag food and anything else you want to haul to the top.
Red wine and marshmallows for the campfire are essential items to carry to the top. Thanks Sherpa!
Warm clothes are a must. Real-feel up there was about minus 7 degrees.
Make sure your base camp has a good vantage-point of Fuego. Nothing beats unzipping your tent at 2am to see the current eruption.
A head torch is far superior to a hand held torch.
Be ok with making your own toilet in nature. Toilet with a view anyone?
If you want to trek with the best, go with OX Expeditions. US$89 and worth every penny. Small group (we had 7 people), some of the best food I’ve had while on tour and the gorgeous Miguel was a solid leader. As a seasoned (and slightly crazy) adventure trail runner, he has done the Acatenango Volcano trail in 1hr 30mins (takes the average person 8hrs one way). Yes, we were in good hands (and frankly great arms too).

Volcano’s hold a mystical appeal. For me, this was an experience unlike any other. They’re frighteningly fascinating and completely unpredictable which left me feeling humbled by the power of nature. #boom