Huayhuash or Why-Wash - the ultimate 10 day trek

If you'd told me a year ago that I'd do a 10 day trek through one of the world's highest mountain ranges, I'd laugh and tell you there's no way I'd go without a shower and home comforts for that long. How times have changed.

I'm now a fully fledged wildebeast - comfortable not showering for 10 days, wearing the same clothes for days on end, at ease with immovable grime under my fingernails, pooping alfresco-style and sleeping in a tent at minus 10 degrees at 4,000m for 9 consecutive nights.

After spending 2 months in a campervanbumping around Chile and Argentina followed by the 5 day Salkantay Trek and a 5 day trek through the Cordillera Blanca, preparation levels were as good as they were ever going to get. As a bonus, Sherpa had performed well over the course of those activities so I was going in with a solid source of support.

Where in the world? Cordillera Huayhuash, ironically pronounced Why-Wash, is a mountain range 8 hours north east of Lima, Peru. The nearest town is Huaraz which is the launch pad for an extensive array of world-class treks. See our post on the Santa Cruz 5 day hike in the Cordillera Blanca.

As we discovered, Huayhuash is regarded as one of the world's best treks. The 180km loop took us around the entire Huayhuash region with jagged snow capped mountains, turquoise glacier lakes, Peru's second highest mountain Yerupajá Grande (6634m) and hauling ass over a 4,500m (and higher) pass everyday.

Nothing will prepare you for the dramatic scenery that you'll live and breath for 10 days. The crisp air, the sound of the wind whipping past you, the colours of wildflowers scattered about and mountain after mountain after mountain. While we had bright, shiny blue-bird skies everyday, at night we had a mix of extreme cold, rain, hail, frost and snow. That's when good company and a warm tent-buddy come in handy.

Our fellow trekkers were a hoot - we lucked out. Four Yanks, all having just finished their 2 year stint at Harvard Business School (Aileen, Alex, Jenny and Michael), one Belgian lad (Thomas) who is a mega cycling enthusiast, and us - Lady Client and Sherpa. There was an instant click, a real sense of camaraderie and 10 days shared that will live in our minds forever.

Before I get to the trip notes, here are our 10 highlights of the 10 day Huayhuash trek:

Trekking 180km around one of the world's most spectacular mountain ranges, Cordillera Huayhuash
Sleeping at campsites above 4,000m every night
Hiking a pass over 4,500m every day
Being alone in the mountains
Star gazing under the galactic Milky Way
Descents that make your knees scream and your nerves stand on edge (literally)
Endless ascents that go on for hours
Panoramic views to take your breath away
An epic group of new amigos
Nightly dinner conversations that had us roaring with side-splitting laughter

Day 1: Quartel Huain

A four hour bus ride from Huaraz lands you at a little town Quartel Huain where the adventure begins.
To warm us up, we embarked on a 'get-to-know-you' short walk to camp through a valley under the watchful eye of Ninashanca mountain.
Campsite 4,160m

Day 2: Quartel Huain to Laguna Mitucocha via Cacanan Pass (4,700m)

The first big climb tested us today, taking us from 4,160m to 4,700m across the Cacanan Pass while condors glided on the arctic winds above us.
Then it's down the ridge and across a rugged plain to Laguna Mitucocha siting at the base of Jirishanka mountain where we set up camp.
Wildlife spotting: condors, cows, sheep, vicuña, ducks, viscachas, geese, baby ducks
Campsite 4,220m

How on earth will Sherpa cope without Lady client...!

Lunch was always a treat thanks to Romil and Merlin

Day 3: Laguna Mitucocha to Laguna Carhuacocha via Alcaycocha Pass (4,800m)

An icy start to the morning with the ground and tents covered in frost. Popping our heads out of the tent, the pink morning light was creeping over the valley.
Today required a specific climbing technique: 'get-up-it-anyway-you-can' for the Alcaycocha Pass (4,800m). We went from 4,200m to 4,800m up a rocky cravas with views of Jirishanca Chica mountain, a blue lagoon and with ongoing support from cows and condors.
A well-deserved long lunch in the sun at the Lake Carhuacocha was in order before we hit the grande finale for the day.
Prepare yourself for the most insane view point with WOW FACTOR and arguably the best vista of Huayhuash. This is where the Cordillera Huayhuash giants revealed themselves: Jirishanca (6,090m), Yerupajá Chico (6,089m), Yerupajá Grande (6,617m) the second highest mountain in Peru and Siulá Grande (6,344m) of “Touching the Void” fame. Sitting beneath these great beasts are Laguna Ganrajanka, Laguna Siula and Laguna Quesillacocha.
From there we had a 600m, almost vertical descent into camp. Like little mountain goats, we manoeuvred our way down this grassy wall before picking up a few beers from one of the local ladies. From our lakeside campsite we were in the presence of the Siula Grande ice fields, Yerupajá Grande, Yerupajá Chico and Jirishanka Chico.
At sunset, the mountains glowed so intensely we thought they were on fire.
Campsite 4,150m

Day 4: Laguna Carhuacocha to Laguna Carnicero via Siula Pass (4,800m)

Prior to the sun peaking over the ridge, vibrant shades of pink beam over the mountains. What a sight to wake up to.
We set off around Laguna Carhuacocha. In its stillness the lake perfectly reflected the mountains above.
Today's vistas could not have showcased the Cordillera better. From a view point beneath the Siula Grande, we had panoramic views over 3 lagoons while 5 mountains towered above. We witnessed an avalanche calve into Laguna Ganrajanka while basking in the sun.
It was some steep climbing to get to the top of Siula Pass at 4,800m but every step was worth it for the view.
The descent took us through my favourite bouncy grass to Laguna Carnicaro where we set up camp. Sherpa took a bath in the glacier river, freezing his nuts off. Brave Sherpie!
Campsite 4,360m

Ummm...say what! Seriously zero Photoshop

Shernequa coming at ya. Rhinestones FOC.

Just the best team - brains as well as quads of steel

High-tech tents requiring palm scans to enter

Day 5: Laguna Carnicero to Viconga Camp via Portachuelo de Huayhuash (4,750m)

A refreshingly steady climb up to Portachuelo de Huayhuash pass at 4,750m before descending past Laguna Viconga with hundreds of fluffy white alpacas.
Spirits were running high as we marched into camp. Why you ask? Mother frickin' hot springs y'all!!
After 5 days of 'baby-wipe showers', a long soak in these piping hot natural springs was a blessing.
Tonight was by far the coldest night. Frost had settled on our tents before we'd started dinner and steam was coming out of our mouths as if the White Walkers would appear at any second (Mum and Dad: this is a Game of Thrones reference).
In response to the cold Thomas, having made friends with Omar (donkey driver), borrowed 3 donkey blankets to stave off the sub-zero temperatures - bringing a crap sleeping bag has consequences!
Campsite 4,300m

Sherpa with time to take selfies given his inability to walk at other peoples paces

Sherpa was relieved Lady Client finally found a bath

Day 6: Viconga Camp to Quebrada Huanacpatay via Punta Cuyoc Pass (5,000m)

High fives for Highest of High Pass Day!
After an exhausting climb, we reached our highest pass of the trip: Punta Cuyoc Pass at 5,000m. The surrounding mountains looked like a lemon meringue pie. Sherpa and I decided to commemorate the moment by cranking the Buena Vista Social Club and practising our salsa moves. It turns out, salsa at 5,000m is tiring.
Our fellow groupies went up a little higher via a rock scramble to 5,250m. Having done 15 days of trekking over the past month we were happy to sit this one out.
It was a treacherous decent to our lunch spot with unstable rocks causing havoc for us all. A better descent would have been a slip 'n slide but Sherpa didn't bring it with him.
We lunched under the face of Cuyoc mountain, a cliff that some weirdos attempt to climb. It's graded a 7c European standard rock climb - that means mega-hard.
Passing the mountain range of Puscanpurpa we arrived at our picture perfect riverside campsite only to find 16 French assholes. Let me explain: the Frenchies (if I can be so familiar) were bathing pantless in the river and frequently bending over revealing their casams of doom. It's a sight I will never un-see.
Snow flakes fell upon us as we scuttled back to our tents after dinner - so cold!
Campsite 4,400m

Looking away from Cordillera Huayhuash towards Cordillera Raura

Day 7: Quebrada Huanacpata to Huayllapa Village via San Antonio Pass (4,900m)

A day of extremes: extreme up, extreme down, extreme beauty and extreme kilometres. Today's pass was a gruelling trudge up to 4,900m with Sherpa making it to the top in record time. From the pass we could see Silu Grande mountain of 'Touching the Void' and its beautiful blue glacier lakes Juraucocha and Laguna Sarapo.
It was a frighteningly steep 600m decent that had us sliding down on our butts and clinging on to anything we could find. If that wasn’t enough, we then clambered through a stinging nettle gauntlet to finally reach the Calinca valley at 4,300m.
The change in scenery as we descended the valley went from rugged mountains to lush and green Andeans with a fast flowing river that led us to a remote little town - the first on our trek. We camped in the town ‘stadium’ that was peppered with cows, donkeys and dogs going at it doggie style. The cheeky mutts took Thomas’s undies for a run which entertained me. A festival was in full swing and locals were in high spirits blasting fireworks into the night. Our chef and donkey driver seemed a little dusty the next day!
Campsite 3,500m

Exultant after a brutal climb. Looking North towards the site of 'Touching the Void'

Day 8: Huayllapa Village to Angushcancha via Punta Tapush (4,700m)

The mother of all climbs today taking us from 3,500m to 4,700m, a gain of 1,200m. 3.5hrs of butts and thighs and as a cruel joke, there were endless false ridges that taunted me the whole way up.
Plenty of happenings on the trail today; sadly we saw a cow fall 3 metres trying to escape us (she was ok), a donkey tripped and fell on his face (he was ok too), we walked past the spot where an American and Peruvian hiker were brutally murdered for their possessions a few years ago (they were not ok), saw a lake recovering from a local mining experiment and in good news, could see the distant mountains of the Cordillera Blanca.
It was dinner time that provided the highlight of the day curtesy of Thomas’ take on scratch & sniff - scratch & lick! Apparently we needed more diversity
Campsite 4,300m

Oh shit there's a unicorn enjoying the sunset!

Day 9: Angushcancha to Jahuacocha Lake via Jaucha Pass (4,800m)

After dusting the frost off our tents, a minor hiccup presented itself - we had 'lost' 2 donkeys and our horse. By lost, I mean that they ran away in the night . The donkey’s were found around lunchtime, they’d taken themselves off to the next campsite but by nightfall, our horse was still at large.
For a change, we had another steep ascent of 1.5hrs. It took us to a phenomenal viewpoint offering panoramic views over Huayhuash. What goes up must come down - the descent was quite something. On route, we came across some of our bags and kitchen essentials that one of our non-lost donkeys had ditched on the path. In an amusing twist, we became the donkeys and carried the bags to camp. Baby from Dirty Dancing eat your heart out "I carried a gas tank".
For our final night, our campsite had all the natural bells and whistles; a turquoise glacial lagoon beneath an imposing glacier, frequent avalanches, waterfalls, wildflowers aplenty, llamas on parade and stars galore once night rolled in.
Despite being suffocated by my own stench, I didn't brace the cold glacial river with the boys, opting for a baby wipe shower and taking comfort that with in 24 hours I'd be standing under a piping hot hotel shower.
Campsite 4,100m

After 9 days the team didn't get bored of the vistas

Peace and quiet, that's what you'll find on the Huayhuash

Day 10: Jahuacocha Lake to Llamac Village via Pampa Llamac Pass (4,300m)

Our last day! We shipped out early to make the 11am bus from Llamac town. The hike through that the valley was beautiful. Of course it wouldn't be a proper last day without having to hike over a 4,300m pass! To make sure we never forget this trek, there was an 800m decent standing between us and the bus. Down we went - again. Knees trembling but spirits high - tonight we will shower!
While waiting for the bus, Sherpa's shoes walked themselves to the bin.
Campsite - hotel complete with hot water, toilet and bed.

And then it was over. Just like that. For me, a 10 day trek at extreme altitude is a huge accomplishment. I feel proud of myself and proud of us - a true partnership that survived conditions that are as challenging as they get.

“Mountains give you time to reflect, to recharge and to connect with the world - the real world”

— Lisa Phillips

Our route: We took chunks of red, most of yellow, and I'm sure some other bat-shit crazy non-marked sections. Overall = #bestever!

DO IT:

Huascaran Adventure Travel blew us away. Paulino fills you with confidence and runs a sophisticated operation. We loved that he occasionally leads trips as it keeps him connected to his product. His team are professional and friendly - nothing is too much trouble.

Guide & crew: Rosmil our guide was brilliant with plenty of local knowledge, a motivating spirit and great sense of humour. Merlin our chef kept us well fed and Omar our donkey driver made sure our bags made it over the passes and our tents were ready to climb into when we hit camp.
Food: you will not go hungry and all meals are delicious. Every day I was shocked that more fresh fruit and vegetables kept appearing.
Equipment: our two person tent was huge and kept us dry and warm against the extreme elements. We got not one but two sleeping mats each which was a treat. The company even lent me walking sticks and an extra sleeping bag (because I'm a wimp).

It's the little extras that kept a gal like me happy:

Daily wake up call with a cup of coca tea delivered to your tent along with a bowl of hot water to wash your face and festy pits
4pm happy hour (tea-time) in our communal tent to unwind and share the daily highlights
A daily snack bag with treats to keep this fatty-boomsticks content

Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa