Swinging through Buenos Aires

We'd heard great things about Buenos Aires, both from friends who had travelled through and those currently living there. Thanks to two such friends - Doug and Loli, we quickly feel in love with the city, one that wears its heart on its sleeve. Ask anyone what they've heard of Buenos Aires and most likely you'll be told about tango, football and a European-esq lifestyle and they'd be spot on, but there's more to it than that.

Yes there is tango, and we spent an enjoyable couple of hours being tourists in La Boca, an area synonymous with the passionate dance 💃. Wander through the colourful streets or simply pull up a chair and watch the show while sipping on a equally colourful Campari and blood orange - yum!

There's also football. It's ubiquitous with Argentinian life, flowing through the country's veins like blood, nowhere is this more apparent than Buenos Aires. The city possesses two world class teams - River Plate (Doug's chosen side named after the morning light on the adjacent Rio Plata) and Boca Juniors. Loli is a Juniors fan (I wonder what derby day's like in their house) and for foreigners they're the team everyone raves about. Sadly there were strikes between players and the league when we visited but we're told that a Juniors game is a sight to behold, if you can afford the $300+ ticket costs!

However it's the European feel to vast chunks of the city which surprised me the most. Volkswagen for example controls 20-25% of the car market, and in a city of ... million where everyone drives this is impressive. Walk or drive and you'll be struck by architectural similarities with Paris or Madrid; they even have their own Champs Elysees in the form of 9 de Julio Avenida which although not as beautiful does hold the title of the world's widest avenue at 18 traffic lanes, 2 bus lanes and 2 huge pedestrian tree-lined promenades. Helped further by an obelisk this avenue is truly grandiose.

It's not just the city which holds appeal. Head north and you'll quickly come to Tigre, the Rio Plata delta and home to hundreds of cute waterfront cottages all accessed by boat. There's a weekly shopping barge that brings groceries, and the story goes that to find land for a property all you had to do years back was sail along the waterways, locate an uninhabited section, more up and voila your very own waterside retreat!

It's criminal to not mention eating and drinking when waxing lyrical about Buenos Aires, and with our local guides as chaperones we were treated to possibly the best steak either of us had tasted, incredible home-cooked asados (BBQ's) and mystery bars worthy of New York.

Buenos Aires delivered on the hype but it wouldn't have been possible without the unlimited generosity of Doug and Loli. They kindly put us up in their top floor flat complete with roof terrace and almost 360deg views of the city and Rio Plata, chauffeured us around, introduced friends and family, cooked out of this world Argentinian fare and generally provided exceptional company!

Thank you 🙏💙

EAT AND DRINK:

The most delicious steak either of us had ever tasted was at El Pobre Luis. Trust the waiters on how it's to be cooked, you won't regret it!
Sip classic cocktails at Puerta Uno, a hidden bar and part of Buenos Aires ever expanding and sophisticated nightlife scene.
The best coffee we found at Felix and Co. Try the cakes mmm...
Internal food markets off the square at San Telmo. The best empanadas we came across all washed down with vino tinto while watching life pass you by.

DO: