A glacier that grows
It’s not often that I am truly marvelled. But Perito Moreno Glacier marvelled me to my core. Spellbound by natures finest attraction - my senses were alive.
Where in the world?
Winding its way down Los Glaciares National Park (Argentina) like an ice serpent is Perito Moreno Glacier. It’s one of Patagonia’s greatest marvels and considered by many to be the 8th natural wonder of the world. Los Glaciares National Park was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1981. Rightly so, this precious ice field needs protecting. It's just along from El Calafate in Argentina's Patagonia region.
An early start was rewarded by pretty pink skies
Indescribable
Photos will never do Glacier Perito Moreno justice it’s something you have to experience for yourself. Stocktake: snow capped mountains, a dazzling milky turquoise glacial lake and an ice field that sweeps down through the mountains. Given my love of cake, I instantly likened the ice field to a lemon meringue pie - sadly there was a lake between me and the glacier or I would have taken to it with my spoon.
See with your ears
Being the first people in the park, Sherpa and I had the glacier all to ourselves. The silence is glorious. It’s in that silence that you experience the magic of Perito Moreno Glacier and understand that it is, in fact, alive. It whispers to you, drawing you in to its secrets. You can almost hear it edging forward. Creeping and creeping until it snaps - and a glacier calves into the lake below sending pistol-like sounds ricocheting off every glacial peak.
It snaps, crackles and pops like coco pops, except instead of a breakfast bowl, this glacier creeps into Lago Argentino.
It’s yuge!
5km wide. 70km long. The glacier looms over you at over 70 metres high and reaches depths of 170 metres below the surface of Lago Argentina. What you can see is only the beginning. Perito Moreno is one of 48 glaciers that make up the Southern Patagonian Ice Field stretching 16,800km2 across the Andes and is the second largest continuous ice field in the world - up there with Antarctica and Alaska.
It’s a creeper
Sir Glacier grows at an average of 2 metres every day yet no one can work out why. It’s one of only three glaciers in the world that grows rather than retreats. Thanks to its daily natural ‘ice show’, the glacier doesn’t gain much distance. It isn’t actually called a show but that’s what many people come here for - to witness that moment when a slice of glacier ‘calves’ (technical term) off into the lake.
Sherpa and I spent 7 hours with Perito Moreno and were mesmerised. I hope you too can go and witness this mystical glacier in all its glory.
TIPS
Be there when the gates first open. At 8am, drive down, park and be armed with a full picnic. The sun started to hit the glacier at 9am and that's when the glacier started to move.
When the ice calves into the water, you hear the boom after it's fallen so be at the ready. Find a spot, sit and take it all in.
Find a quiet spot, away from all the tourists so you can hear the magic. Many people don't walk that far so it's easy to find a quiet spot.
DO IT
El Calafate is the launch pad for this national park. To me, the town was a little soul-less and touristy but if you can get over that and spend time down at the lake, you’ll be left with a beautiful impression.
EAT & DRINK
We found the best coffee at La Destileria on the main street, tucked away in a little courtyard.
Pulled pork or Patagonian lamb burgers anyone? You'll find that tasty haunt right next to La Destileria. They also serve up local craft beer.
STAY
Buenos Aires Hostel was fantastic when we needed to sleep in a real bed.
Camping El Nigiguao (search Maps.me) is excellent with piping hot showers and a nice quiet campground. I don't recommend parking a Wicked Campervan in the streets of El Calafate - we had a scary experience by the lake with a whacked-out looney.
Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa
