El Patron's Guatape
What an enchanting little lakeside town. Oh hey Guatape, I'm talking about you. A troubled past kept you from the world but now your beauty's on show.
Only two hours from Medellin, you'll want to add this cutie to your list. Throughout the week it's a sleepy town but on the weekends, when the Medellin crowds descend....prepare to party.
Guatape has had a troubled past. Until 12 years ago, it was a red zone - red with danger and red with blood. You can thank Pablo Escobar for that. But that's all been left behind now and Guatape can finally be enjoyed by everyone for everything it has to offer.
You'll be forgiven for falling for Guatapes beauty - a big labyrinth lake, lush, rolling green hills and towing over the lake is Piedra del Penol, a granite monolith that begs to be climbed. All 700 steps #bunsofsteel.
700 steps to the top
You're in for a treat if you wander through the town. Cobblestone streets and brightly painted houses featuring zócalos - colourful scenes depicting village life of yesteryear. Every house proudly displays its own story which provides a glimpse into the town's history. Charming.
Simply gorgeous - every street is like this.
But what dropped my jaw was clambering all over Pablo Escobar's house *ahem* sorry, mansion, that was bombed by the Cali Cartel in 1993 (funded by the USA). Taking a private speedboat there made the experience a little bit more rockstar.
In no way do I intend to glorify this man who brought so much bloodshed and chaos to Colombia (and beyond)......but......holy shit did Pablo Escobar have an epic pad. Some of the extensive list of luxuries include; a private soccer field where he'd fly in pros to play for him, a waterfront pool perfect for parties, stables, steam rooms, watch towers and a garage where he'd order the cars to be kept running at all times should they need to escape.
The burnt out shell has been left untouched and is now owned by a former housekeeper, Maria who worked and lived here for 23 years (well deserved). She'll happily take you for a tour of the property where you'll also get to see the plants El Patron had brought in from all over the world; Africa, Canada and even Australia. Don't get me started on his zoo which was three hours up the road. He had an affinity for exotic animals, smuggling in giraffes, zebras, elephants, cats and hippos.
Pablo Escobar's Guatape mansion, bombed in 1993 by the Cali Cartel
The shell of Escobar's mansion remains untouched
Thanks to El Parron, Colombia now has the second highest population of hippos outside of Africa. These renegade hippos have gone on a breeding spree and are thriving in the Colombian wild. Apparently the conditions of the Magdelanga River are perfect for hippos much to the terror of the local residents. Watch the Cocaine Hippos documentary to see what they're dealing with.
El Patron was allegedly making $60million a day from his dealings (that's over $21 billion, yes billion, per year!). But my favourite random fact? As a result of all this cash, he was spending $2,500 per month on rubber bands to hold the money together.
It's an eerie feeling wandering around. For those who want a more immersive experience, you can now play paintball on the grounds. However, I preferred to just sip quietly on a rum in his old bar.
Escobar's soccer pitch - now where you can play paintball
DO:
Get a bird's eye view over Guatape. Climb the 700 steps to the top of Piedra del Peñol. Wowsers!
Take a private boat tour of the lake. This allowed us to get off the boat rather than being stuck, unable to explore. COP$90,000.
Climb all over Pablo Escobar's Guatape waterfront mansion. The former housekeeper will show you around.
EAT & DRINK:
Thai Terrace restaurant boasts the best Thai I have had out of Thailand. Fried Colombia food be gone! It's conveniently at the top of Lake View Hostel (FYI it's closed Friday).
Hecho con Amor is a tasty little spot set back a block from the main road. You can get a fresh wrap, salad and a host of homemade cakes and treats #drool
Any of the lakeside restaurants serve up traditional Colombia carbs, I mean food.
SLEEP:
Lake View Hostel was a wonderful find (thanks Ange & Rach). We took the private lake view room which set us back COP$80,000 per night (approx AUD$36). An absolute steal to wake up with the lake twinkling in my eyes.
Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa
