Exploring the Yucatan

Exploring the Yucatan

More than just Cancun, that infamous spring break destination for thousands of partying, selfie-taking American college students, the Yucatan region of our beloved Mexico has a lot to offer.

Needing to reach Belize and the rest of Central America before too much time evaporated we hit up the essential sites, cramming in snorkling to a subterranean museum on Isla Mujeres, staring in awe at Chichen Itza, one of the new 7 Wonders of the World, baking on the beaches of Tulum, making friends with free-spirited turtles...and of course eating more fish tacos!

Beyond any doubt an unforeseen accommodation highlight has been Mama's House Hostel, Tulum. Rated as 2016's #1 hostel in North America and Mexico it doesn't disappoint. If you can bag a room here it's a must!!!  

A technicality: causing much debate, Sherpa is very unhappy that this blog post refers to the Yucatan Peninsular. The tourist dialect dictates that the region we visited is not technically the Yucatan but in fact the Quintana Roo Region - which no one has ever heard of. So I've taken creative licence and conferred with the language of the Lonely Planet. What would Sherpa know.

Isla Mujeres

Located just 20mins ferry off the Cancun coast, this tiny island offers a more chilled, if still touristy alternative to Cancun etc. Calm waters, endless happy hours and some insane AirBnB's (cash dependant), it's worth a visit. Note: US dollars accepted everywhere but with differing exchange rates so pay in Mexican Pesos

EAT & DRINK

  • We'd heard Roosters was the place to get our morning munch on and it didn't disappoint. Large helpings and a convenient location got us ready for the day. Touristy prices but that's true for most of the island.

  • Rubens, a local place with classic Mexican fare just down from our hotel. We only had breakfast but heard all meals are tasty and affordable.

  • The Marcado opens between 8am - 4pm offering tasty and affordable local dishes. Naturally we ate fish tacos again.

  • Bobo's bar has a more local feel, enhanced when one sits down and shouts everyone a beer just because his NFL team are winning.

  • Most restaurants and bars offer deals e.g. 4 tacos + 1 cocktail so we sampled a couple but they all blend into one - they make life easy however. We did however meet on our snorkeling trip a delightful Costa Rican couple (now residing in New Jersey) who insisting on footing the bill for numerous margaritas at one such establishment. Dawher and Ana Castro were too kind, thank you!

DO

  • Lisa's snorkelling experience (and swimming prowess) being more extensive than mine meant some basic tips being given about staying afloat and moving around underwater sights. All this was rendered pointless as life jackets were essential...something about being off the coast, although we suspect it's the host of tourists who can't see their toes anymore who've forced the unwritten rule. Despite the restriction there's ample time to see a variety of marine life, coral, and their underwater museum made of human statues and a car - pretty cool.

  • Get up early and do treehouse yoga overlooking gorgeous turquoise waters, all before it gets too hot.

  • Hangout at Playa Norte, the main beach. Two loungers, a small table and umbrella set us back $250pesos but it's worth it. Note: Buy beers from a street front store and take them to the beach. It's far cheaper and perfectly acceptable.

  • We didn't get around to this but hire a scooter or golf buggy and tour the island. 60mins will have you covering everything.

SLEEP

  • Xbulu-Ha hotel located a couple of streets back from the main pedestrian drag consisting of restaurants, bars and trinket shops. Recommended after our preferred choice Hotel Las Palmas was yet to open for the new season. Note: breakfast isn't included in most smaller hotels so most restaurants open at 7am.

MOVING ON

  • Ferry back to the mainland takes 20mins, costs $146pesos pp, and upper deck travelers can enjoy a delightful Mexican gent playing Enrique Iglesias songs to speed you on your way.

IF YOU DARE

  • Put your faith in the Mexican postal service. Four weeks for an express package to arrive was too bigger ask, especially with the post office only open 2-4pm Monday-Friday and clearly a huge backlog based on the piles on the lobby floor.

Valladolid and Chichen Itza:

Primarily functioning as a stopover town to make access to Chichen Itza easier (45mins away) we'd not recommend much more than one night as its quite limited - and bloody hot. There were a couple of hidden surprises however which made our few hours of downtime pleasant.
 
Chichen Itza on the other hand is well worth adding to the schedule assuming you abide by certain guidelines:

  1. Arrive early! We were inside at 8:30am before the crowds or souvenir sellers. By 11am it was heaving with tour groups

  2. Get a Collectivo or local bus to and from to save money

  3. Snap El Castillo, the main pyramid immediately and then tour the rest at your leisure.

  4. Get a guide becuase there is hidden magic in this place ($700 peso). If you're like us, and can't really afford that luxury, download the Chichen Itza audio tour while you have WiFi.

EAT & DRINK

  • Set in a secluded courtyard complete with a 35ft tall mosaic encrusted fountain La Casona de Valladolid. Offered some of the best quick eats in Mexico and very affordable drinks.

  • Breakfast at Squimz next door to the bus station. Modern, clean, tasty and open from 7am.

STAY

  • Little option on a tight budget. We opted for Hostel Santa Maria (check Hostel World) two blocks from the bus station. Lovely owner but no A/C or breakfast.

DO

  • Visit Chichen Itza one of the new 7 Wonders of the World.

  • Wander Calzada de los Frailes street for quality boutique shopping and artisanal coffee and chocolate.

MOVING ON

  • ADO bus to Tulum's beachside paradise takes less than 90mins.

Tulum

This is a spot that we are most definitely coming back to. It's hard to imagine a location that better caters to the wealthy and backpackers alike. Offering a world renowned beach of white sand, turquoise waters and palm trees, a host of seriously hip beachside bars and restaurants, the most impressive boutique shops, and endless activities including swimming with turtles, yoga and the famous cenotes.  A handful of days was never going to be enough. 

Meeting people is a wondrous part of traveling which comes with a benefit or curse, depending upon your stance - recommendations. It happens that some places look cool but are advised against and others which you're sceptical about get rave reviews from fellow travelers. Tulum however was the top of hit lists from both friends and strangers...it doesn't disappoint.

EAT & DRINK

  • Xolo's, cute little courtyard restaurant with delicious tacos and potent mescal-laced cocktails. Across the road from Mama's House hostel

  • Taqueria La Eufemia for beachside beats and beers. Good food and probably the cheapest place in the hotels area

  • Ki Bok makes a coffee even Aussies approve of. Try 'The Hemingway', a house special!

  • Simply named Mojito Bar it's no surprise what they specialise in. Sit and watch them squeeze their own cane sugar via a VW Beetle contraption.

  • El Pollo Bronco on the main street has the best chicken in town. 1/2 chicken, rice, tortillas and coleslaw for two is $90pesos

  • Good food at La Malquerida opposite Ki Bok coffee

  • The best ice cream in town can be found at Panna e Cioccolato. We may have ventured in more than once 🙄

STAY

  • If you're staying in town then it's got to be Mama's House. Rated the #1 Hostel in North America and Mexico for 2016. Great staff, masses of helpful info, suburb breakfasts and evening activities made us feel right at home

DO

  • Hire bikes and cruise out to the beach. Get a chair under shady palms at Zazil Kin (5mins ride from the ruins) to enjoy a free cocktail and one of the world's best beaches.

  • Head 30mins north via Collectivo ($35pesos pp) to Akamal where you'll swim with turtles. Ignore the locals trying to sell you a snorkelling tour as it's completely unnecessary, simply take your own gear (Mama's House has stuff for free) and walk along the beach 50m. We left our bag under a tree, swam out a little and BAM - turtles!!!

  • Swim, snorkel or dive the cenotes, limestone pools with glass-like water clarity, stalactites, stalagmites, and more turtles. The Grand Cenote ($150pesos pp) is only 4km's out of town

  • Shop if you feel inclined. Given the wealth of boutique hotels along the beachfront its little wonder local clothing labels are popping up to cater to their clientele. A very bohemian vibe and the best quality in Mexico. Lisa was very controlled which was a relief as our bags aren't getting any lighter

  • Check out the beachside Mayan ruins. It's a small sight and best seen early morning (opens at 6am) to avoid the crowds

MOVING ON

  • ADO bus from downtown to Chetumal on the Mexico / Belize border. Sub-3hr for $200pesos pp.

Instagram: @thelisaphillips #somedaysherpa

Belizimo!

Belizimo!

Cuba calling (now)

Cuba calling (now)